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Krusher,

10 out of 10 for ingenuity. The wave looked perfect fora paipo. The board certainly looked like it could hold an edge through the hollow sections/whitewater.

Was this some sort of reef? I was interested in the variety of wave heights.

I'd be interested to see the stills, especially if they are close up.

Bob

bgreen wrote:Krusher,

10 out of 10 for ingenuity. The wave looked perfect fora paipo. The board certainly looked like it could hold an edge through the hollow sections/whitewater.

Was this some sort of reef? I was interested in the variety of wave heights.

I'd be interested to see the stills, especially if they are close up.

Bob

Thanks Bob I tried it at another break first and to cover a large area i could be in I was more panned out, but when i saw the footage I was the size of an ant!

This time I had rocks that were closer and when it was small on the outgoing tide I knew i was going to be surfing that small area, If i had dont the same later when it was good much bigger I was moving over a much bigger area.

Its a rock reef which has several shelfs as it goes out to sea so depending on each bit of swell it breaks on and outer or inner shelf and has wide "west bowls" which are the hollow waves. I had one of the best barrels I have ever had locally about 2 hours after this was filmed, my friend has shot, just got to get them off him.
This paipo drives so much faster through a barrel, i'm almost converted!! have not been back on the bodyboard since i started riding it

Hot off the press just got a teaser shot through email from my friend, poor quality because it was just an email quicky, will be loads better when i get the real thing

Krusher,

If this is the ordinary sort of waves you get maybe my wife's idea of going to London one day isn't such a bad idea. I surfeld in Ireland a year or so ago at this beachbreak and the tidal range and effect on where there were waves was pretty amazing let alone bewildering. On the second surf the waves I saw from shore deteriorated into closeouts quickly. after an hour or so of surfing another bank that filled in I got an ok wave in. While drying off, I saw the original bank start firing up with the best waves of the day. I'm sure local knowledge goes a long way in your part of the world.

Enjoy the paipo.

Bob

bgreen wrote:Krusher,

If this is the ordinary sort of waves you get maybe my wife's idea of going to London one day isn't such a bad idea. I surfeld in Ireland a year or so ago at this beachbreak and the tidal range and effect on where there were waves was pretty amazing let alone bewildering. On the second surf the waves I saw from shore deteriorated into closeouts quickly. after an hour or so of surfing another bank that filled in I got an ok wave in. While drying off, I saw the original bank start firing up with the best waves of the day. I'm sure local knowledge goes a long way in your part of the world.

Enjoy the paipo.

Bob

No this was not ordinary for here, this is the best I had ever surfed this reef in 19 years of surfing here! Local knowledge is huge living here.

On a world wide surf scale of 10 I would give ireland a 9 and wales a 2. I also consider ireland to have small tides with there range being in the 10ft area and our in wales being around 40ft!
A few years back I surfed a fickle mid tide reef on a big tide, the first set that did not break dry on the reef was still to dangerous, 10 mins later the next set was good, 3rd set 10 mins later and the tide had pushed so much the wave had gone fat, and 4 set the water was so deep it not did ant even break!

Where did you go in ireland?

Sick one Krusher74! I'm surprised you can still surf those spots during that much tide swing. In my area, the average tide range is probably only 3-6 ft, but there are some spots that get really tough to paddle back out at when the tide comes flooding in. There are a lot more spots where it's a constant battle to stay on the peak at the height of any tide change. Lots of inexperienced surfers have needed a rescue after getting sucked past the bridge in SF on the out going tide, which is the only time that spot will start to break.

OG-AZN wrote:Sick one Krusher74! I'm surprised you can still surf those spots during that much tide swing. In my area, the average tide range is probably only 3-6 ft, but there are some spots that get really tough to paddle back out at when the tide comes flooding in. There are a lot more spots where it's a constant battle to stay on the peak at the height of any tide change. Lots of inexperienced surfers have needed a rescue after getting sucked past the bridge in SF on the out going tide, which is the only time that spot will start to break.

I guess I just used to changing conditions, here in wales a low tide reef break is only surfable for around 11/2 hours either side of low tide (so 3 hours window) which unfortunately means everybody has to surf that place in that window which does crowd them up.
Also if you in work during low tide and after work its high tide, then no surfing that place for you.

I have however found its not to dissimilar in places with small tides. cali beach breaks, get far to low and close out and then get to high and fat, and that seems to happen in the space of 3 hours also. But i guess there still surfable in some way during all daylight hours.

I'm gonna have to come up and vist you for a golden gate bridge surf, one to check off the bucket list!

Well you guys must be my lucky charm!!

Scored another reef about 1/2mile from the last video all to myself today, its not the biggest I have surfed it (maxes out at 4ft) but it the best shape ever!

After filming the other day i had not charged my battery so I only got 13mins of footage to edit before the camera shut off, I left in plenty of sets and paddling for you to get the idea as my wave catching was not much in 13mins.
At 4mins I stood on the reef so you can see how shallow it is to get it to barrel.
Again go 720p and full screen

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8aCekl62 ... e=youtu.be

Krusher,

May your run of luck continue. I kept thinking, wave ouside. Looks like the shelf there must extend out a bit as well.



Bob

bgreen wrote:Krusher,

May your run of luck continue. I kept thinking, wave ouside. Looks like the shelf there must extend out a bit as well.



Bob

Yeah there are several outer reefs that jack the wave up before it gets to the real barreling inside, as you can see i let loads go by as i'm waiting for the ones with a wraping wall that will barrel. The outer reefs make it cloud break and rumble white water through the inside above 4ft, so it maxes out easily.

Just a board update.

I spent the winter in cali surfing mainly mosslanding.

The board has performed flawlessly (bar hitting me in the jaw when a fell of a barrel and nearly needing stitches)

I manage to fulfill my goal and on a Wednesday trip to LA to see friends scored Rincon around lunch and then a evening ankle to knee high glass off session at malibu with only 4 others out.

I names the board the "ricon rocket" after one of larry goddards designs and on my first wave on it an inside ricon score a 4ft wave that i got barreled on for about 50ft on the end section stocked!!

I also managed to surf malibu till dark and had one magical 200yard ride where i basically road through feel and a shimmer if the street lights hitting the glassy wave face.

Its only glassed with a 6 and 4 on the top, so it taken a beating, so I will now get a new one built, but I have no ideas of any changes to make as it seems to lack in no way!!!

Krusher,

The surf in the video looks like fun. I am a similar bodyboard to paipo convert. The bodyboard is a really efficient vehicle for catching surf.

Taking a no-paddle late drop on a floaty (e.g., Austin 50") paipo is similar to taking the same drop on a bodyboard - except the paipo is hard. The cushion construction of a bodyboard not only saves teeth, but also dampens out crazy steering input from chop and unsettled lines following actual freefall.

Taking a late drop on a swimmer (e.g., HPD) paipo is an altogether different story: paddling with the board under you is a recipe for getting sucked over the falls for lack of speed (followed by a stiff beating with a rigid board); paddling with sidestroke style with body back and one hand on the board risks a hard landing on the board with arm outstretched (a dislocated shoulder, followed by a stiff beating with a rigid board); taking off low (under the hook) risks getting a beating by the lip or possibly getting sucked up backwards and thrown out onto the reef.

Ted wrote:Krusher,

The surf in the video looks like fun. I am a similar bodyboard to paipo convert. The bodyboard is a really efficient vehicle for catching surf.

Taking a no-paddle late drop on a floaty (e.g., Austin 50") paipo is similar to taking the same drop on a bodyboard - except the paipo is hard. The cushion construction of a bodyboard not only saves teeth, but also dampens out crazy steering input from chop and unsettled lines following actual freefall.

Taking a late drop on a swimmer (e.g., HPD) paipo is an altogether different story: paddling with the board under you is a recipe for getting sucked over the falls for lack of speed (followed by a stiff beating with a rigid board); paddling with sidestroke style with body back and one hand on the board risks a hard landing on the board with arm outstretched (a dislocated shoulder, followed by a stiff beating with a rigid board); taking off low (under the hook) risks getting a beating by the lip or possibly getting sucked up backwards and thrown out onto the reef.

I have also now put a couple of 2mm thick foam pads I got from a knee boarder friend as elbow pads, these pads give a much less harsh feel on late drops. I now take off on pretty much anything i would do on the bodyboard bar air drops.

Krusher,

Pads are a good idea. I've considered gluing my 36" bodyboard to the top of my HPD for a Franken-paipo beast.

I have found that these work great.

http://www.acebrand.com/wps/portal/3M/e ... JZRVX3JFbl

I always carry with me on long, not wetsuit trips, one or two pairs of similar elbow pads -- one pair are actually knee pads but fit very well. Needed them after some trips to Puerto Rico where I was on the board a lot for a week or more.

My real padding was purchased last May before a return trip to Costa Rica in June after injuring my rib cage during the March trip. The injury occurred on a freak drop where the wave's lip separated me from the board and hurled me downwards towards the board which I landed on with the lip pounding me further. Freaky. I bought some lacrosse rib pads that gave me compression and protection. Now I am ready for the spot -- certainly helped out last June

Krusher,

I may have asked before. Any idea on the volume of your board? How much nose and tail lift does the board have?

Bob

on volube all i know is It floats be the same height when sitting on it as as my standard 41/42" bodyboard , it was made from the center of a 7.2A usa blank, I think its 1/4" tail rocker and much more in the nose.

Got a pic from a friend of me cranking a bottom turn in cali this winter, interesting to see how far over I have lent the board. Pictures show some odd things you never know you do.

Krusher,

That looks like fun - plus no crowd!