MyPaipoBoards Forums

Here are some photos of latest board I built. It is stringerless 2 pound eps (from White Cap construction). 52 x 21 x 2 3/8 (?). I tried it out the other day and it goes great.

Looks pretty sweet! Are paipo fins usually canted (I think that's the word) in that sharply?

Riding prone may well add a different dimension and there's lots of opinions on this but here is some info from a guy who has ridden a couple:
http://www.surfscience.com/topics/surfi ... uper-twins


Bob

The cant (the side to side tilt) is 5 degrees. The FCS fin plugs come in 0, 5, or 8 degrees. 5 is a standard cant for side fins. I don't know what the toe in angle is. I used the Greenlight Surf fin layout measuring tool and it has a twin fin toe in layout. I used that angle. I think it is about the same as my last board, which works very well. I think the cant might less on my new board compared to my old board.

Atlantasurfer wrote:Looks pretty sweet! Are paipo fins usually canted (I think that's the word) in that sharply?

I think you maybe meant "toe"

The more fins toe in the sharper it turns, but more drag

Been considering a eps/epoxy stringerless board next.

How's it glassed , double 6oz?

I talked to knee-border a while back and he had one said he much preferred it.

In theory the flex pattern is supposed to be superior of that of stiff bit of wood down the center.

How re you finding it compared to a standard stringered foam and fiberglass board?

The lay up is 3 layers of 4 ounce top and bottom with Entropy Bio epoxy resin. It doesn't really have any flex at all. But it feels different than my Polyurethane board
with a stringer. It seems to have more energy and catch waves easier even though it is narrower and thinner than my PU board.

jbw4600 wrote:The lay up is 3 layers of 4 ounce top and bottom with Entropy Bio epoxy resin. It doesn't really have any flex at all. But it feels different than my Polyurethane board
with a stringer. It seems to have more energy and catch waves easier even though it is narrower and thinner than my PU board.

my first board was 4 and 6oz glass and I have pressure dented the crap out it, maybe it the superlight usa blank also.

the energy and easier wave catching sounds great!

My boards are typically 3 x 6 oz.

This board is epoxy. I think that makes quite a difference. My other foam board is pu with regular polyurethane resin. It is much more brittle. It seems like any little tap will cause it to craze or crack. I have had to seal it up or repair it multiple times. This board seems very tough and lighter even with more glass. But we will see. I haven't banged it on anything yet. My sons epoxy boards are alot tougher also.

I like your board. What are the dimensions? Is there much rocker in it?
Any thoughts on it now you've had it for awhile? I'm thinking of a similar project.

Thanks

bgreen wrote:My boards are typically 3 x 6 oz.

Dimensions are in the first post 52 x 21 x 2 3/8

It has about 2 3/8 inches of rocker in the front and 1/2 an inch in the back with about 3/8 of an inch of concavity in the back. I really like this board. It is little thicker in the front and much thinner in the back than my other foam board. I like having more foam in the front. It really helps with making the bottom turn after a steep drop. I had to lean back on my other board on the drop or would pearl and even then I would still pearl often. I can make it out of all sort of drops and crazy bumps etc. The thinner rear rails also help with top turns. Being an inch narrower also helps. It still doesn't duck dive like my 1 1/2 inch wood board with a Cove pad. As you know the paddle out can be a bitch around especially at Ocean Beach. But it duck dives better that my other foam board.

I am preparing to build another board with all the same dimension except it will thinner at about 1 3/4 to 2 inches. I will add a cove pad.

What's a cove pad? Finding a foam board that duckdives like a wood board is something like the holy grail. A HPD will but they are a similar thickness.

jbw4600 wrote:It has about 2 3/8 inches of rocker in the front and 1/2 an inch in the back with about 3/8 of an inch of concavity in the back. I really like this board. It is little thicker in the front and much thinner in the back than my other foam board. I like having more foam in the front. It really helps with making the bottom turn after a steep drop. I had to lean back on my other board on the drop or would pearl and even then I would still pearl often. I can make it out of all sort of drops and crazy bumps etc. The thinner rear rails also help with top turns. Being an inch narrower also helps. It still doesn't duck dive like my 1 1/2 inch wood board with a Cove pad. As you know the paddle out can be a bitch around especially at Ocean Beach. But it duck dives better that my other foam board.

I am preparing to build another board with all the same dimension except it will thinner at about 1 3/4 to 2 inches. I will add a cove pad.

I'm glad you sorted out the front of the board,its no fun riding a board that wants to pearl forcing you to ride hard on the tail on a steep take off.

Here are the Cove Kneeboard pads. http://www.covepad.com/ I put a 5/16" pad on my wood board and it works great. You can order it to size. Contrary to Casey (the maker) says it does add some float. So it didn't put it on my blue board. But I am planning on making my next board thinner to accomodate for the extra float. It definitely made my wood board float more, which is actually good thing in that case.

My sternum and costal cartilage is pretty messed up paddling and bad drops. It hasn't so bad with new board, because the drops aren't so bad. But I really like the feel and you don't need wax. The mega platter guy uses them on his board.

Thanks for the pad explanation . When you get dings - what do you use to repair an eps board? I've never had one before, but will be travelling with one, but did read you need to fix them promptly, when dinged. I wanted something I could readily travel with.

Bob

For small repairs, if you are not hooked on aesthetics, the epoxy putty works great. Comes as a sort of bi-layer tootsie roll in a tube and you just pinch off what you need and seal up the rest then knead it for a minute or so until color totally even and pack it in the hole. When mostly cured but not yet rock hard, knock it most of the way down w/ small surform then when all the way hard, sand it smooth and go. Whole process only takes an hour or so

bgreen wrote:Thanks for the pad explanation . When you get dings - what do you use to repair an eps board? I've never had one before, but will be travelling with one, but did read you need to fix them promptly, when dinged. I wanted something I could readily travel with.

Bob

I just used some of his on my board bob, amazing how i cures in 2 mins wih UV/sun light

http://www.boardshop.co.uk/phix-doctor- ... kit/pd-01/